When we pulled into Hercules Bay early this morning, the 40-knot winds pounding out at sea came to an immediate halt. Out came the kayaks and zodiacs, then, and the guests that boarded them. Such watercraft are ideal for capturing the most intimate vantages of the stark terrain surrounding us. Four species of penguins later, we left the area for afternoon activities. Half of our group landed at Maiviken for an overland hike. A couple hours later, they met the rest of the group at Grytviken whaling station. Here we visited the now-famous whaling museum, a life-size replica of the James Caird, and capped the afternoon visiting the cemetery, where we toasted the famed Antarctic voyager Sir Ernest Shackleton.