Magdelena Bay is a legendary place on the Pacific side of Baja California Sur. Famous for many reasons, it was the sight of our second day of exploration in BCS, Mexico. A place sparsely populated with people but rich in marine life, as well as long-shore drift, it made for excellent beach combing. The land was in a shocking state of green after the recent rains, and nearly every desert plant was in lush pigment and flower. The sea surface was glassy as we took to the water for kayaking or stand-up paddleboarding. After our morning operations we packed up and took to the seas by ship just outside the bay. We were making our way south, but not in a hurry just yet, as the rich waters nearby can often bring charismatic megafauna – and it certainly did. At least three humpback whales appeared and kept us company for hours, all the while performing tail-lobs, spy hopping and full breaching. The sun set in glorious Baja fashion again, as we were on our way to Cabo.
- Daily Expedition Reports
- 19 Dec 2019
Magdelena Bay, 12/19/2019, National Geographic Venture
- Aboard the National Geographic Venture
- Baja California
James Hyde, Undersea Specialist
James is a home-grown, free-range Pacific Northwest outdoorsmen. Born in Seattle and reared nearby on Vashon Island, he grew up in and surrounded by the Salish Sea. James has saltwater in his veins, but would be quick to point out we all do, echoing ...
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In nature, borders are fluid and transition zones dynamic, as we are discovering on our voyage along the Pacific Coast. We traveled from the cool temperate waters of the California Coast to the warm, tropical waters of Baja California Sur. We have seen communities of fish, including the orange Garibaldi of the northern kelp forests and the bright reef fishes of the southern coral. As we crossed the Tropic of Cancer this morning, we moved into the tropics. A warm, humid wind welcomed us as we rounded the cape of the Baja Peninsula toward the Sea of Cortez, signaling our official entry into an ecosystem defined by arid desert mountains, lush freshwater oases, and abundant ocean waters. To begin our exploration, we landed in the town of San Jose del Cabo, where guests discovered the natural and cultural history of the peninsula’s southernmost point. Some walked through the estuary, an oasis in the desert to a huge diversity of bird life. Others took a historical tour of the town center with stops at the Catholic mission and an artisan glass blowing factory, both glimpses into a culture that thrives here in the heat of the desert. The tropics provide perfect conditions for marine megafauna; humpback whales migrate over 4,000 miles from summer feeding grounds in Alaska to take advantage of warm ocean waters as they give birth to their young. When we returned to the ship later in the day, we spotted multiple groups of these gentle giants almost immediately. A mother and newborn calf calmly swam along the surface while another group of four adult males tail-slapped and lunged in displays of competition. Simultaneously, bottlenose dolphins swam beneath the ship. All in all, an exciting and dramatic welcome to the warmth of the tropics! We will spend the last two days of the trip breathing it all in.
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Today was our second day in the protected waters of the bay. National Geographic Venture lifted the anchor before sunrise, and sailed from Bahia Almejas to Bahia Magdalena. We sailed along Isla Santa Margarita as the sun started to rise, and by daytime we dropped the anchor near Isla Magdalena. Here we had our morning activities, which included walks across the island towards the Pacific side, into the mangroves for bird watching, or simply time to explore on our own. We landed on the south side of the island, not too far from the tiny town of Puerto Magdalena. The beauty of this place is unique. Today we learned about the myriad of creatures that inhabit the sand dunes, from coyotes and jackrabbits to the tiny beetles, mice and lizards. Once at the beach on the Pacific side of Isla Magdalena, everyone enjoyed their experience in a different way. Some sat down in the sand to contemplate the views, and others walked far along Bahia Santa Maria. The bird watchers found over thirty species of birds, while learning about plants and the dune ecosystem as they explored the mangroves. After a very nice morning on Magdalena Island, we sailed away from the bay into the Pacific Ocean once again, bound for the Los Cabos region. On our way out, before even leaving the bay, a humpback whale and its calf breached several times not too far from the ship. As we kept sailing, we had other encounters with several humpbacks and interesting seabirds.